My first reaction to being invited on a “luxury barge” cruise was to wonder if a “barge” could truly be luxurious. After all, the word “barge” itself is not exactly melodic; secondly, barges are better known for their function than their comfort. Unlike the glamorous cruise ships of yesteryear, barge cruising was something you did to earn a living, not for pleasure; and the cuisine served on board was more likely a can of beans and rot-gut than a gourmet meal and fine wine.
My hesitation quickly disappeared however when I was told that the cruise would be on the Canal du Midi in Southern France. (Heck, I’d settle for a raft, an ice chest and a bologna sandwich just to experience the beauty of this rich and fertile region.) I was eager to embark on my new adventure.
The Adventure Begins -
Montpellier
The cruise departed from Montpellier which is located about 4 hours by train from Paris (or less than 2 hours by air) in the South of France. We opted to travel by train so we could enjoy the countryside along the way. Crystal was a great help in providing me with information and guidance in all aspects of my planning.
Thanks to the efficiency of American Airlines in the face of some weather-related delays, we arrived in Montpellier a day before the cruise to allow some time to adjust to the time change and to have a look around Montpellier since it was our first visit.
While Montpellier was intended only as a stop off point for the trip, we were pleased to discover that it was a beautiful and vibrant city with interesting architecture and friendly people. Crystal recommended the New Hotel Du Midi for my stay which was located adjacent to a bustling pedestrian-only promenade called the Place de la Comédie where small cafés, theaters and specialty shops lined its perimeter. The hotel was a pleasant surprise for the price (about €109) – offering both comfortable rooms and a great location.
Montpellier is a youthful city (average age is +/- 27) which I learned was due to the Universities located there. The University of Montpellier is one of the oldest in France having been established in 1220. In 1970 the university was divided into three units – resulting in medical, technical and art schools. If you can afford the time, plan to spend a day or two exploring this lovely city. As luck would have it, we ran into our cruise mates, Gary and Steve, owners of the fabulous Elysium Resort in Fort Lauderdale.
On sailing day, a van was dispatched to our hotel to gather us and our luggage. We were greeted by a friendly and outgoing Brit named Rob and delivered into the capable hands of the Athos crew who greeted us with warm hugs and cold glasses of champagne. “Ahhh,” I thought, “this is going to be lovely!”
The Athos
The Athos is a 12 passenger hotel barge and the largest barge on the Canal du Midi at 100 ft. An expansive sun deck outfitted with lounge chairs, a picnic table and bicycles serves as a wonderful gathering place for passengers to enjoy sunning, sightseeing, evening cocktails, and engaging conversation. At night, city dwellers will especially enjoy the star-studded sky and the soothing sounds of night absent the honking cars, the whir of air conditioners and the general chaos of city living.
Located below deck is the parlor where meals are served and guests may enjoy a cocktail from the well-stocked bar while relaxing with a novel, playing cards or simply enjoying conversation. In the evening, the parlor is expertly transformed from its casual afternoon ambiance into an elegant dinner party complete with personal touches like flowers gathered by one of the Athos’ staff or butter decorated with a dragon fly fashioned from pepper corns and flower petals.
The guestrooms are deliciously comfortable and well appointed with ample closet and storage space, a spacious private bath with all of the necessary amenities, and a large comfortable bed with down comforter, luxury sheets and large fluffy, huggable pillows.
The Canal du Midi
The Canal du Midi stretches 240 km (149+ miles) and was constructed in the 17th Century as a shortcut between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. The Canal began as the vision of Pierre-Paul Riquet, a wealthy farmer in the region, but eventually became his undoing. Committing his life entirely to the construction of the Canal which took more than 15 years (from 1665 to 1681) and 12,000 workers to complete, Pierre eventually found himself bankrupt and ill. Sadly, he died just a few months before the completion of the Canal.
Cruising leisurely along the tree lined canal, you can’t help but marvel at the size and scope of Pierre’s undertaking; and once you arrive at the first “lock,” marvel is quickly replaced by jaw-dropping astonishment. And while I consider myself fairly well-traveled, this was my first encounter with a lock that did not require a key or combination.
The Canal du Midi has over 100 locks which serve to raise or lower the water level of the Canal to allow for easier navigation across the hilly terrain. The locks along the Canal du Midi are operated by lock keepers who each have a unique (and sometimes colorful) personality. Barges are driven into a kind of chamber where the water level is adjusted to allow the barge to continue along its journey. It is a time-consuming but fascinating process that draws an audience each time. I was amazed at the number of locals lining the canal banks at each lock we encountered making the process feel more like a celebration than a necessity.
A Day in the Life
A typical day on the Canal begins with breakfast served in the salon. Cereals, cheeses, meats, croissants and pastries (often served fresh from bakeries along the Canal), and a variety of juices and coffee greet guests as they rise from a long and rejuvenating sleep.
After a leisurely breakfast we set out on our daily excursion which, depending on where the Athos has docked, may be a local winery, an Olive Company or a City Centre.
We’d return in the afternoon to a three-course lunch which we’d enjoy on the outside deck under the canopy of a powder blue sky and warm French sun. Wine and conversation made for a relaxing afternoon. Some days we bicycled along the Canal rejoining the Athos at one of the locks just a few kilometers along the way; and some days, we lazed on the deck reading, listening to music or playing one of the many games onboard for guests.
Afternoon appetizers and cocktails or wine were served about 3pm. Dinner was served in the salon about 8pm and I usually savored the last morsel of one of many tasty dessert offerings at 10pm or so.
After dinner, we’d gather again on the deck to sip cocktails and converse about the days’ activities.
And so it was, for six wonderful, relaxing days. No phones, no television; only the sound of the canal gently caressing the Athos as it continued on its journey.
It Takes a Village
There are many small cities and villages lining the Canal with quaint houses and small businesses that have survived the elements for generations and still stand proudly to remind visitors of the many others that have passed before them. Gazing out over expansive vistas dotted with farm houses, vineyards, and colors of green you’ve likely never seen, you may feel transported back in time; you may feel the stress and strain of city life leave you; you may long for a life less complicated. But you will certainly leave with an appreciation of the rich heritage of the region and a love of all things French.
Carcassonne.
One of the most notable of the cities we visited was Carcassonne where we began our adventure. Known as the walled City, it is located about 50 miles southeast of Toulouse, nestled between the Pyrenees and Massif Central mountains. Carcassonne devours the skyline standing majestically atop a hill in the region with its walls and spires reaching high into the sky against the backdrop of rolling hills and vineyards. Carcassonne is located in a historically major traffic route spanning the Atlantic and Mediterranean Oceans. Fortified by the Romans in 100 BC; battle weary, Carcassonne eventually fell into disrepair, and after spirited debate about its future, the fortress was completely restored beginning in 1853. It was recognized as a World Heritage Site in 1997. Today it is a major tourist destination with a hotel and many shops to accommodate its many visitors.
Narbonne.
Linked to the Canal du Midi by the Canal de la Robine, Narbonne was established in 118 BC and was located on the first Roman Road , Via Domitia. Today, remains of the Via Dominita are preserved in the center of town. Surrounded now by boutique stores, fast-food chains and cellular shops; this juxtaposition of old and new makes for an interesting look back in history and makes one wonder what legacy will be left in Narbonne by our generation. Also of note is the Halles de Narbonne, a covered market with everything from produce to purses. It is lively, colorful and allows for interaction with the locals which I always enjoy. Also be sure to see the Musee Archeologique, a Roman museum also located in the city centre.
With many architectural wonders, dining and shopping opportunities, it was a perfect stop-off as we made our way along the Canal.
Saying Goodbye
The hardest part of our barge adventure was saying goodbye; first, to our new friends, the Athos crew who made our journey infinitely more exciting and interesting; to Southern France where I am now committed to retiring; and finally, goodbye to a vacation that I suspect will always remain unparalleled.
As you begin planning your next adventure, consider gathering a group of friends, small or large, to join you on a gastronomic and sightseeing adventure that will remain etched in your memory (and possibly your thighs <smile>) for many years to come. Barge adventures range in group size from 2 to 12 and, if you are the “controlling” sort, with a day of instruction, you may captain your own barge! Talk about Master of your Domain!
For more information or to book your travel, please visit www.DeluxeCharters.com. Crystal Groome and her “crew” will handle every detail for you.
The Crew
As you might imagine on a cruise of this size the crew becomes an important part of your overall experience. This form of travel is so intimate that over your six day stay, it is impossible not to have significant contact with each of the crew members. Pleasantly, I found this to be one of the most enjoyable of my experiences. The six person crew consisted of:
Captain Julian a tall, handsome man with a warm smile and a quick, dry wit. He regaled us with stories of his many experiences on the Canal and the interesting people he has met. He also loves telling a good joke.
Julian’s wife Danielle (who at this writing is pregnant with their first child, little Jack) was our tour guide and an expert on area history and little known facts about each place we visited. Warm and captivating are two words that jump to mind in trying to describe her. Her knowledge is impressive and extensive and she is a delight.
Rob was new to the Athos and a friend to Julian and Danielle. Rob was a teacher in England prior to joining the Athos and Julian was training him to captain the Athos. Rob had recently become a father which was obviously his greatest joy. We were lucky to meet his wife and baby at one of our stopping off points.
Australian born Travis was new to the Athos as their executive Chef. His culinary talent was nothing short of amazing – the best I have ever enjoyed and his presentation was a work of art. Have a look at some of his gastronomic creations in the sidebar.
Julie was our wine Steward and this was her final voyage on the Athos – a young and vibrant young woman, she was moving on to pursue some new and exciting adventures. Julie’s nightly wine presentation showcased her extensive knowledge of the many wines of the Languedoc region; her appreciation of the art of wine tasting was evident.
Sara was from Australia and was hired to assume Julie’s duties aboard the Athos which gave us the pleasure of being her first subjects. Sara had a ready smile, an animated manner and seemed to bubble over with her love of life. We were all in agreement that she would make an entertaining and wonderful wine steward as she progressed in her job.
Despite some of the crew members being rookies everyone appeared comfortable with their duties and at ease with their guests.
And Now For The Menu!
Sunday:
The Wine:
Domaine des Martinolles Chardonnay, 2005
Domaine de Sylla Plana 2004, AOC Faugeres
The Dine:
Entrée: Garlic Sautéed Prawns with a Tower of Lemon-Infused Rice
Plat Principal: Roast Chicken with Creamed Leeks and Baby Corn, Green and Blond Beans with Slivered Almonds
Fromages: Selles sur Cher; Cantal Entre Deaux
Desert: White Chocolate Mousse with Passionfruit Purée and Strawberry Coulis
Monday:
The Wine:
Domaine de Guery 2005 “La Vie en Rose” Rosé
Domaine de Barroubio 2005 Muscat Sec Blanc
The Dine:
Entrée: Sautéed Frogs Legs with a Dried Apricot & Radicchio Salad, and Raspberry Seed Mustard and Orange Vinaigrette
Plat Principal: Slow-Roasted Sea Perch with Martinated Red Pepper, Dutch Carrots, Baby Asparagus Drizzled with Lemon & Dill Butter Sauce, Garnished with Gambas Tails
Fromages: Langres; Camembert
Dessert: Vanilla-bean Pannacotta served with Fresh Berries
Tuesday:
The Wine:
Château de la Grave 2005 AOC La Clape “Expression”
Borie du Maurel 2004 AOC Minervois “Esprit d’Automne”
The Dine:
Entrée: Salad of Roquette & Breaded Pan-Fried Goats’ Cheese with Fig Jam
Plat Principal: Twice-Roasted Baby Duck with Red Curry Sauce and Grilled Pineapple Garnish
Fromage: Langres, Camembert
Dessert: Red-Wine and Spiced Poached Pears served with Mousse au Chocolat, and Fresh Raspberries
Wednesday
The Wine:
Domaine de Gourgazaud 2005 Viognier
La Bergerie d’Hortus AOC Coteaux de Languedoc “Tradition”
The Dine:
Entrée: Chicken Liver Paté served with a selection of Fresh Local Bread
Plat Principal: Marinated Lamb Medallions with Black Olive Salsa, Potato Galette and Mint Jus
Dessert: Crème Brulée with Kumquat Confiture
Thursday:
The Wine:
Selections from local vineyards
The Dine:
Entrée: Bouziques Oysters on the Half-Shell, Kilpatrick & Mornay
Plat Principal: Mediterranean Monkfish with Blue Cheese and Pear Purée, Roasted Sweet Potato, Satuéed Courgettes and Roast Vine Tomatoes
Fromage: Munster; Brie
Dessert: Gateau au Fromage with Wildberry Purée
Friday:
The Wine:
Château Grand Moulin 2003 AOC Corbieres
The Dine:
Entrée: Lemon & Pepper Crusted Scallops served with fresh-water Shrimp
Plat Principal: Eye Filet of Beef served with Garlic Spinach, Asparagus and Creamed Beetroot
Fromage: Roquefort; St. Maure de Touraine
Dessert: Coconut & Lime Mascarpone Tarte
Bon Voyage et Bon Appetite
