LONDON: A Primer

If you love to travel, and you want to see the world, but you’ve yet to travel outside North America, London is a great place to start your world travels. The city is safe, it offers something of interest to practically everyone, and, for North America’s English speaking residents, it offers the unique opportunity to visit a foreign Capital without having to learn another language. London is also easy to get around, with a wonderful mass transit system, and the residents are, for the most part, both friendly, and eager to offer assistance if you need some.

But Wait A Minute. What About The Exchange Rate?

OK. It’s true. There have been better times to visit London (and the rest of the United Kingdom) when you look at it from a purely financial standpoint. The exchange rate, for visitors from North America in particular, IS a bit dismal (it currently costs a little over $2 to buy one British pound). But come on! In the end, you cannot put your life on hold just because of prevailing exchange rates. And besides, who knows when, if ever, it will change back to something that is significantly more favorable. So my own personal opinion is that if you want to go to London (and you should), then by all means go. Just do some advance planning, be smart about your visit, and economize when and where you can.

Advance Planning: Finding An Attractive Airfare

If you’re concerned about saving money, the very first thing you’ll want to look into when planning your trip to London is the air travel. And there’s good news on that front. These days, the airlines are offering some really good deals on international travel, especially to destinations like London.

Go online and find all the airlines (domestic and international providers) that travel to London from the major city nearest you. And while you’re looking, sign up and/or register as a frequent flyer with them. There’s no reason not to, and there’s no downside to doing it. After all, if you do end up taking a trip to London, you’ll rack up some great frequent flyer miles with whichever airline you choose!

Generally, you can sign up to be a frequent flyer on any of the airlines’ websites. Once you do, you’ll begin getting regular communications about specials, and discounts, including those that are good for international travel to destinations like London.

Another good strategy is to start checking the rates being offered by one or more of the online booking engines – Travelocity, Orbitz, or Expedia. These services also offer incredible deals on international travel, not only on the airfares, but also on combination bookings (i.e., air and hotel, or air, hotel and car). They are worth keeping an eye on because if the airlines are looking to increase their passenger numbers during a specific period of time, they often partner with these large wholesalers to drive traffic.

The third strategy for securing a great airfare, and one people tend to forget nowadays, it to call or email one of the many LGBT travel agents and tour operators (for a list, visit www.traveliglta.com). These travel professionals are not only sensitive to the needs, preferences and requirements of gay travelers, but are also travel experts; some of whom specialize in one particular country or another. Find one that specializes in travel to the United Kingdom in general, and/or in travel to London in particular. Then tell them what you’re looking for and see what they come up with for you. Often, such specialists have access to deals and rates that are far better than anything you might be able to find on your own. And best of all, when you use a professional, you’re assured that you won’t get any unpleasant surprises. Foreign travel, even to someplace like London, is not the same as domestic travel. Unless you’re a veteran traveler, there’s just no good reason not to at least talk to the experts.

Where to Stay.

Deciding where to stay in London (especially if you’re trying to save money) is really a matter of preference – preference in terms of location, and in terms of the type of accommodation you prefer (or are willing to accept in order to save a bit of money). In terms of location, it all really comes down to what you want to do and see, and where you want to play and explore.

There are some great buys and beautiful properties in some of London’s suburbs, for example, but for my money, I’d rather be located in London itself, even if it means paying a wee bit more. Why? Mostly because I know that when I go to London I’ll be touring the sites, attractions and museums during the day, and visiting the restaurants, bars and the theatres at night. And while it’s true that you can take the tube most anywhere, it all comes down to time and convenience. For me, that means staying somewhere in London proper. Moreover, because I know my trip will involve sightseeing (as will yours, especially if it’s your first visit), I’m more than likely going to look for something near Hyde Park or the West End.

Having settled on your own preference in terms of location, your next decision relates to the type of accommodation you prefer. There are some great deals to be had in the form of small B&Bs, independent hotels, and/or budget hostels, and they’re located pretty much in every area. There are also a few gay owned and/or gay-friendly Inns and hotels. It’s really a matter of what’s important to you in terms of basic comforts and amenities. For example, do you want a private bathroom? Do you want a room with a television? Do you want central heat and/or air? Do you want breakfast to be included? Is it important to you to have a restaurant on the premises? A bar? Room Service? To make the best match for yourself in terms of accommodations, make a written list of the things that matter to you. Then, match your list to the hotel options you are considering. Again, take a look at the online booking engines. But also do a search online, and/or ask your travel agent.

There are some great London-based companies that offer a variety of hotel options, and there are lots of smaller properties nowadays with websites. You should also: 1) contact the hotels or Inns you think you might be interested in and ask them specific questions about their property; and 2) ask for references, either directly, or by looking online. Finally, don’t just do your research by email or mail. It’s worth the cost of an international phone call or two to get some of your information directly. You’d be surprised how much you can tell about a place by the way they handle themselves on the telephone.

Changing Money.

The rules for changing money (in terms of where to go and which services to use) vary from country to country. In London, I found that the very best places to go were the banks. They typically offer the best exchange rates and charge the lowest commissions (although the particulars do vary between banks, so always check before deciding which one to use). The slight disadvantage is that the banks have more limited hours than the Bureaux de Change do, but you can get around that with a little advance planning.

I always recommend changing some money before leaving on a trip to any foreign country. That way you have one less “thing to do” when you arrive, and can focus on getting your bearings and getting settled. If you’re like me, you’ll be tired and jet lagged from your flight. Trust me. The last thing you’ll want to do is worry about where to change money.

Getting Around London.

London’s mass transit, especially its underground (the “Tube”), is the absolute best way to get around the city. Although taxis abound, they can be expensive, and the fares can add up quite quickly if you’re doing a fair amount of sightseeing. Rental cars are also not a great option, both because of the fair amount of congestion in downtown London, and also because of all the parking restrictions. Even Londoners rarely use their cars, especially during the week. And why should they? With very little effort, they, and you, can get to almost anywhere on the Tube.

Tube Travel Cards.

If you plan to be in London for several days, purchase a weekly travel card. There are other options (daily, family, monthly), but for most trips, the weekly card ends up being the most cost effective. (If you plan to stay longer than a week, but less than a month, purchase a Prepaid Oyster Card instead.)

All Travel Cards are available at Tube stations, and at convenience stores displaying a red “pass agent” sign. They allow unlimited travel within the Zones you choose. There are six Zones in London, but most travelers rarely end up traveling outside Zone One (which includes most of London’s main sites), so generally a single Zone Travel Card is perfect. To use them, simply pass them through the reader slot beside the turnstile as you enter the train area inside the station. And remember that you must pass them through the reader slot both when you enter and when you exit.

Sightseeing The Smart Way.

London’s most famous attractions typically have lines of people waiting to get in, especially when they first open their doors in the morning, and on weekends. Here are a few tips to help you minimize your wait time.

1. Determine where you want to go. Then look up the opening dates, times and ticket prices. Make a written list of your choices, then map out your days based on the locations of the attractions and the tube stations you’ll need to take to get there.

2. Once you’ve decided how much touring and sightseeing you want to do, you can determine the best way to handle tickets. If you plan to be in London for several days, a week, or even longer, and you want to see quite a few attractions, consider purchasing The London Pass (www.londonpass.com). You can buy one, two, three or six day passes, and you can even add transport to your ticket for unlimited use of the tube (thus eliminating the need for a separate Travel Pass). Best of all, you can make your purchase in advance so you have it when you arrive. If you plan to do more limited touring and sightseeing (or if your list is not covered by The London Pass), you’ll want to purchase tickets independently. Make sure you purchase tickets in advance in order to avoid long lines and queues. Some attractions (like the London Eye) even offer Fast Track Tickets (for an upcharge) that allow patrons to avoid the queue lines altogether.

Eating, Drinking and Making Merry.

London’s pubs provide one of the very best ways to see the real heart of London. These, often lively, gathering places are as much a tradition in London as Big Ben, and best of all, they can be quite a bargain if you’re hungry and on a bit of a budget. Hearty portions of meat pies, sausages, fish and chips, and sandwiches are always on the menu, and are best served with a “Pint of Ale.” Another great food tradition in London is the result of Britain’s long relationship with India. Centuries of trade and immigration have resulted in a large Indian population in London, and throughout Great Britain, and with the people came the food. Great food. Some people claim the Indian food in London is second only to the food served in India itself. All I know is that it’s really good, it’s readily available, and it’s not expensive.

Attractions Not To Be Missed.

It would be impossible to see all of London’s great attractions in a single trip. There are simply too many of them, and all of them are fascinating. So in picking a few, I am not claiming that they are superior to others; just that I personally wanted to see them, and think every other visitor to London should see them.

In no particular order, they are:

Buckingham Palace. It’s the home and office of the Queen – yes, THE queen – Elizabeth II. The Queen’s Gallery, and the Royal Mews (the Stables) are open year-round, and the Changing of the Guard takes place at 11:30 daily, from May until the end of July, and on alternate days for the rest of the year, weather permitting. If you want to see the State Rooms, you’ll have to visit in either August or September (when the Queen makes her annual visit to Scotland). That’s the only time they’re open for tours (unless you have a personal invitation from the Queen). For more information about this and other Royal tours, visit www.royalcollection.org.uk

The Tower of London. I confess. I’ve seen every single movie ever made about Henry the Eighth and all his wives. I’ve also read books, both factual and fiction, watched television shows (documentaries and dramas) and spent far too much time obsessing about sixteenth century England. And you wonder why the Tower of London was second on my list! Why, it’s the very place where Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey were beheaded, and where the Crown Jewels are housed. Enough said. You need to go!

Windsor Castle. I know. It’s outside London, but given what I just confessed about my obsession with sixteenth century England, you had to know it would be on my list. Windsor Castle is the largest and oldest occupied castle in the world, it is another of the official residences of The Queen, and St George’s Chapel located within the grounds of Windsor Castle holds the tombs of ten British sovereigns, including Henry VIII, his third wife Jane Seymour, and their son, Charles I.

The London Eye. Built by British Airways as part of London’s millennium celebration, this relative newcomer has fast become one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. It’s also a great way to see the city. For more information, or to purchase advance tickets, visit www.londoneye.com

The British Museum. The British Museum is the oldest public museum in the world, and includes treasures unequaled anywhere else. The extensive collection includes relics from prehistoric Britain, from Roman Britain, from Europe, from Egypt, Greece and Rome, Asia, Africa, and the Ancient Near East. Visit www.britishmuseum.org

Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. Although not open to the public, no visit to London would be complete with a visit to Big Ben. The world famous Clock tower holds the largest clock in Britain; one that has been keeping accurate time since1859! It is attached to the British Houses of Parliament (which IS open for tours), and close to Westminster Abbey, No. 10 Downing Street, and the statue of Boadicea (the British Queen who fought the Romans).

Hyde Park. London’s green spaces are amazing, and Hyde Park is one of the most spectacular. First acquired by Henry VIII (who “accepted” it from the Monks of Westminster Abbey), it is famous for its daffodils, its Speakers’ Corner and its world famous Serpentine Lake.Visit www.royalparks.org.uk/parks/hyde_park/

The Tate Britain. The Tate Britain, formerly the Tate Gallery, is the national gallery of British art, and is home to the world’s largest collection of British art (from the16th to the 21st centuries). It is part of the family of Tate galleries, each of which display selections from the Tate Collection. The other three galleries are the Tate Modern (also in London), the Tate Liverpool, and the Tate St Ives. Visit www.tate.org.uk to learn more about this stunning collection.

Food Favorites

Gay men in London say the following are NOT TO BE MISSED – not by London’s gay residents OR by its gay visitors. So here’s the inside scoop on some favorite London eateries…Tom’s Kitchen (especially for Brunch - www.tomskitchen.co.uk) and Tom Aikens Restaurant (not cheap, but worth it), both in Chelsea, and both by, guess who, Michelin-Starred Chef, Tom Aikens... Randall & Aubin, Soho - one of London ‘s hippest eateries, located on Brewer Street in the heart of the West End. Fresh seafood and shellfish (the BEST, and what you should get!), plus rotisserie cooked meats and a vast a la carte menu…boheme kitchen and bar (located on Old Compton Street), a delightful urban space with an equally delightful menu…and finally, Yauatcha – where East/West fusion meets Dim Sum in a stunning confluence of flavors. Not cheap, but lovely (as are the wonderful Chinese pastries and teas for sale at the front of the restaurant)

Nightlife.

Old Compton Street, and Brewer Street, both located in London’s West End (SoHo), provide a great place for gay men visiting London to explore shops, gay bars, nightclubs, restaurants, and more. As you can imagine, gay life in London is huge, spread out, and can be overwhelming to explore if you’ve only got a few days. So take it a step at a time. Visit some of the places on Old Compton Street, talk to the locals, and get a sense of whether there’s enough in the area to keep you occupied, or if there are other places you need to explore. London has some great clubs – CRASH, Club Colosseum, Fire ( www.fireclub.co.uk), AREA, the Soho Revue Bar, XXL ( myspace.com/xxllondon), the Shadow Lounge (www.theshadowlounge.com), Coco Latte, SW5 and more. But before you go exploring all over town, buy somebody a drink at one of Old Compton Street’s favorite watering holes and get the latest dirt on all the party palaces, saunas, play rooms and meat markets. That’s what I did!

Cheers!